Kanchipuram silk sarees, often referred to as the queen of silks, have a rich heritage that dates back over 400 years. These sarees are a hallmark of South Indian culture and are renowned for their vibrant colors, intricate designs, and unparalleled craftsmanship. However, with the growing popularity of Kanchipuram silk sarees, the market has been flooded with imitations. It is essential for buyers to know how to identify authentic Kanchipuram silk sarees to ensure they are investing in genuine pieces. This guide will help you distinguish between real Kanchipuram silk sarees and their counterfeits, focusing on key features such as the weave, silk quality, zari, and other traditional elements.
The Weave
The hallmark of an authentic Kanchipuram silk saree lies in its unique weaving technique. Each saree is handwoven by skilled artisans using traditional methods passed down through generations. Authentic Kanchipuram silk sarees are made from pure mulberry silk and have a distinct interlocking technique called korvai, which joins the pallu (the end piece of the saree) and the body of the saree.
- Korvai Technique: Look closely at the junction where the pallu meets the body of the saree. In a genuine Kanchipuram saree, the transition is seamless due to the korvai technique. This method creates a sturdy and durable join, making it almost impossible to separate the pallu from the body without damaging the saree.
- Double Warp and Weft: Authentic Kanchipuram silk sarees use a double warp and weft, resulting in a thicker, heavier, and more durable fabric. This feature distinguishes them from other silk sarees, which might be lighter and less resilient.
Silk Quality
The quality of silk used in Kanchipuram sarees is another crucial factor in determining authenticity. Traditional Kanjivaram sarees are made from high-grade mulberry silk, which is known for its lustrous finish and soft texture.
- Lustre and Texture: Genuine Kanchipuram silk sarees have a natural sheen that reflects light beautifully. The texture should feel smooth and luxurious to the touch. If the silk appears dull or feels coarse, it is likely an imitation.
- Thread Count: Higher thread count indicates superior quality. Authentic Kanchipuram sarees have a high thread count, contributing to their durability and rich texture. You can check the thread count by examining the saree under light – the denser the weave, the better the quality.
Zari Work
Zari, the metallic thread used in weaving intricate patterns, is a defining feature of Kanchipuram silk sarees. Authentic zari is made from pure silver and gold, which adds to the saree’s elegance and value.
- Pure Zari: In genuine Kanchipuram sarees, zari is made by wrapping pure silver around a silk thread, which is then plated with gold. This process ensures the zari has a rich, metallic sheen and does not tarnish easily. To check for pure zari, gently scratch the zari threads – if you see a reddish tinge underneath, it is genuine. Fake zari often uses plastic or copper, which will show a different color when scratched.
- Motifs and Patterns: Traditional Kanchipuram sarees feature motifs inspired by South Indian temples, nature, and mythology. Common designs include peacocks, elephants, and flowers. The intricacy and precision of these motifs are a testament to the artisan’s skill and the saree’s authenticity.
Color and Dye
The colors used in authentic Kanchipuram silk sarees are vibrant and long-lasting, achieved through natural dyes and traditional dyeing techniques.
- Natural Dyes: Genuine Kanchipuram sarees are dyed using natural dyes derived from plants and minerals. These dyes not only produce rich, vibrant colors but are also environmentally friendly. Synthetic dyes, often used in fake sarees, may appear too bright or fade quickly after a few washes.
- Color Fastness: To test the color fastness, you can perform a simple test by rubbing a small, damp cloth on the saree. Authentic Kanchipuram sarees will not bleed color, indicating the use of high-quality, natural dyes.
Silver Kanjeevaram Saree
Silver Kanjeevaram sarees are a unique variant of traditional Kanjivaram sarees, known for their elegant silver zari work. Identifying an authentic Silver Kanjeevaram saree involves checking the quality of the silver zari and the overall craftsmanship.
- Silver Zari Quality: The silver zari used in these sarees should be made from pure silver, providing a distinct, radiant shine. As with gold zari, you can perform a scratch test to verify the authenticity of the silver threads.
- Design Consistency: The motifs and patterns in Silver Kanjeevaram sarees should be consistent and well-defined. Any irregularities in the design could indicate a lack of craftsmanship, suggesting the saree is not authentic.
Certification and Labels
Many genuine Kanchipuram silk sarees come with a Silk Mark certification, a label issued by the Silk Mark Organization of India (SMOI). This certification guarantees the purity and quality of the silk used in the saree.
- Silk Mark Label: Look for the Silk Mark label on the saree, which serves as a mark of authenticity. This label ensures that the saree is made from 100% pure silk and meets the required quality standards.
- Brand Reputation: Purchasing from reputed brands and authorized dealers can also ensure the authenticity of Kanchipuram silk sarees. Established brands maintain strict quality control and are less likely to sell counterfeit products.
Price and Value
The price of Kanchipuram silk sarees can also be an indicator of authenticity. Genuine sarees, due to the high-quality silk and pure zari, tend to be more expensive.
- Price Comparison: If a Kanchipuram saree is being sold at a significantly lower price than the market rate, it is likely to be a counterfeit. Authentic Kanchipuram silk sarees are an investment, and their prices reflect the quality of materials and craftsmanship involved.
- Detailed Inspection: Before making a purchase, inspect the saree in detail. Authentic Kanchipuram sarees will have even weaves, consistent patterns, and a rich, luxurious feel. Any inconsistencies in the weave, design, or texture can indicate a fake.
Conclusion
Identifying authentic Kanchipuram silk sarees requires attention to detail and knowledge of key characteristics such as the weave, silk quality, zari work, and dye. By understanding these features, you can ensure that you are purchasing a genuine piece of South Indian heritage. Remember to look for the Silk Mark certification, buy from reputable sellers, and be cautious of prices that seem too good to be true. With these tips, you can confidently invest in the timeless elegance of Kanchipuram silk sarees and enjoy their beauty for years to come.